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SACRAMENTAL SOIL: Will Ouweleen and the spirit of the Finger Lakes

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  • George Payne 

Philosopher. Biologist. Deadhead. Reggae lover. Winemaker. Defender of free speech. Soul Rebel. Builder. Concert promoter. Green energy guru. Institutional fundraiser. Community organizer. Keeper of First Nations history. Champion of all things Finger Lakes.

Will Ouweleen wears more hats than most can imagine, and yet, each one seems to fit. He may just be the most interesting man in the Finger Lakes.

On a bright, sunny day in late April, Will guided me through his expansive estate, a testament to his deep dedication to community, sustainability, and the unique spirit of this region. It’s just the two of us, zipping across the property in his off-road vehicle, as he offers me a behind-the-scenes tour of the world he’s built.

Walking around the land, it’s off-season, and wine production has ground to a near halt. There’s a kind of calm that settles over the vineyard. This land is his paradise. Of course, there’s uncertainty about the future- there always is. Is it crystal clear what Will plans for his empire? Not exactly. But he is a man who has found his place in the world. “I’m having an awful day,” he jokes—“awe-full,” emphasizing the wonder of it all. Whether it’s a broken machine, a cracked solar panel, or a political storm brewing somewhere, he seems chill about it all inside.

Everything Will loves about this place, he shares with delight. His joy becomes infectious. I am happy for him simply being so happy. It helps that we share many of the same interests: music, wine, nature, history, culture, and, above all, the Finger Lakes.

Our journey began with a glimpse of the new glamping cabins under construction, soon to become serene retreats for stargazers and city escapees seeking privacy and peace. They offer direct access to the pristine beauty of Hemlock Lake, and more than that, they reflect a necessary shift in the industry.

Will talks candidly about the changes he sees: “Young people aren’t drinking wine like they used to,” he tells me. “There are so many other products out there now.” For vineyards to survive, they have to innovate, create new revenue streams. That’s part of why he’s moving O-Neh-Da into glamping and special events—transforming the winery into a full-fledged destination.

Inside the winery itself, he showcases the blend of tradition and innovation that defines his work. From vintage machinery to modern tools, each piece plays a role in producing O-Neh-Da’s distinctive sacramental wines, an unbroken legacy since 1872.

Nearby, Will proudly shows off the stages that have hosted concerts, drawing on his love for music (especially reggae) that vibrates the soul. A whimsical, blue-tinged swimming hole adds a touch of magic to the tour, a detail that speaks volumes about his creative spirit.

In an act of deep environmental stewardship, Will has donated former grape fields to The Nature Conservancy, ensuring the land will be preserved for future generations. And the tasting room, adorned with Native American art, serves as both a cultural hub and a place of hospitality. It invites visitors into the layered, living story of the region.

At the heart of Will’s life philosophy is a creation he calls The Official Flag of the Finger LakesEmoji. It’s more than just a banner; it’s a declaration of values.

“While America’s States seem less and less United,” he shares, “We the People of the Finger Lakes are creating a Calm-Unity of people passionately in pursuit of life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness.”

The flag’s design is striking: eleven red and white stripes, each representing one of the Finger Lakes, set against a peaceful blue background. The red symbolizes the blood shed by those who fought for justice. The blue stands for peace. The white is the tabula rasa, the blank slate on which we each write our own story.

“Become your best self in the Finger Lakes,” Will tells me. “Be a maker, not a taker. And remember to be kind.”

He is, at his core, a man of mission. A man of joy. A man animated by awe. “This region is unique,” he reflects. “It gives you history, beauty, and a sense of mission. I’m lucky to live here. I’ve spent my life looking for purpose, and this place has given me one.”

Will Ouweleen doesn’t just make wine, he cultivates a life. A life rooted in soil, in spirit, in sacrament. A life lived freely and fully in the Finger Lakes.

A Life Transformed: From Wall Street to the Finger Lakes

In a past life, Will Ouweleen thrived in the high-powered world of Wall Street finance, consulting for major corporations like Morgan Stanley, Duke Energy, and Microsoft. Back then, his wine preferences leaned toward the French—Bordeaux, Burgundy, the fancier the name, the better.

But in 2007, he and his life partner, Lisa Woodhams, decided to leave the stress and grind of city life behind. “We initially rented a home in the woods of Hemlock Lake, found it in a penny-saver ad, and rented it sight unseen. Upon arrival, we were perplexed to find a rundown building that was an unknown winery operation started by Rochester’s first Bishop after the close of the Civil War,” Will tells me. “Within a month of our arrival, I was on the phone with the owner, exploring how we could partner to eventually acquire the winery and property.” The place they bought was not far from where Ouweleen had grown up in East Irondequoit, NY.

Will speaks of his childhood in East Irondequoit with deep affection. It was, he recalls, a tight-knit neighborhood where people looked out for each other, where community wasn’t an ideal but a daily reality. His neighbors included figures like Nick Tahou, who introduced him to the art of business at just eight years old. It was in this place, both nurturing and entrepreneurial, that the seeds of Will’s worldview were planted. On one hand, he absorbed the value of solidarity and neighborliness; on the other, he grew into a self-reliant mold-breaker who would never be confined by convention. These seemingly opposing forces, community devotion and radical independence, still shape the man he is today. 

As for the wine: “I found it surprisingly good and affordable,” he says of Finger Lakes wine, with a grin. But it wasn’t just the wine that drew him in, it was the place.

An Unbroken Line: O-Neh-Da’s Legacy

O-Neh-Da’s story begins with Bishop Bernard McQuaid, Rochester’s first bishop, who established the vineyard to provide natural, unadulterated sacramental wine to churches across the diocese. At a time when mass-produced, commercial wines were gaining popularity, McQuaid insisted on purity, a standard that Ouweleen proudly maintains today.

“We use only grapes. No non-grape sugars or artificial additives,” Ouweleen explains. “Many don’t realize how rare that is.”

Even after Hemlock Lake was acquired by the City of Rochester in the 19th century to secure clean drinking water, McQuaid’s vineyard was spared, recognized for its sacred purpose. The surrounding land became a protected watershed and nature preserve, allowing O-Neh-Da to remain a solitary but sacred outpost of tradition, agriculture, and faith.

The vineyard was overseen by the Society of the Divine Word throughout the 20th century, surviving even Prohibition thanks to a religious exemption. Today, it remains one of the last vineyards in the world to produce sacramental wine exclusively from locally grown grapes, a feat of devotion, craftsmanship, and stewardship.

“The wine we make has the same purpose and purity it had over a century ago,” Ouweleen says. “It’s handcrafted, spiritually significant, and deeply tied to this land.”

A Global Moment and Local Advocacy

In 2015, Ouweleen’s commitment to authentic winemaking reached a global stage. When Pope Francis visited New York City, Ouweleen contacted Cardinal Timothy Dolan, offering to donate O-Neh-Da’s sacramental wine for the Papal Mass at Madison Square Garden.

“I wanted to make certain that Mass was celebrated with guaranteed valid and licit wine,” Ouweleen said. “The only way I could do that was to donate all the O-Neh-Da Authentic Sacramental wine needed for the Papal visit.”

He personally delivered the wine, along with premium Finger Lakes Riesling, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Franc from O-Neh-Da’s sister vineyard, Eagle Crest Vineyards, to be served at dinners with Pope Francis and other dignitaries.

For Ouweleen, the moment was profound. “In the wine world, if you’re in the sacramental business, unless Jesus came back himself and threw another supper, it doesn’t get any better than to have our hard work used by the Pope and cardinals here in New York.”

Beyond the vineyard, Ouweleen has become one of the Finger Lakes’ most passionate advocates. In his role with the Finger Lakes Wine Business Coalition, he has been a tireless opponent of fracking, landfills, and environmental threats to the region’s lakes and farmland.

“The Finger Lakes has been building a reputation for fine wine, farm-to-fork food, and a way of life that can be passed on from generation to generation,” he says. “We’re not the gas and garbage dump of America. We are—and will continue to be—one of the most exciting wine regions in the world. Excelsior!”

With more than 20 percent of Finger Lakes wineries now powered by solar energy, Ouweleen sees renewable energy not just as smart policy but sacred responsibility. “We’re showing the world what sustainable wine country looks like.”

A Legacy in the Making

As Will Ouweleen stands at the helm of O-Neh-Da Vineyards, he is not simply tending to grapes; he is nurturing a legacy. A legacy that intertwines faith, tradition, sustainability, and a fierce devotion to the Finger Lakes region. It is a legacy rooted in a deep sense of responsibility, not just to the land, but to the future generations who will inherit it.

Will’s journey from the fast-paced world of Wall Street to the tranquil vineyards of the Finger Lakes is a testament to his belief in the power of place, purpose, and personal transformation. Through his work, he has redefined what it means to cultivate more than just wine: he has cultivated a sense of belonging, a commitment to the earth, and a community spirit that echoes across the Finger Lakes. His story is one of resilience, adaptability, and unshakable faith, faith in the land, faith in his work, and faith in the power of small, purposeful acts to change the world.

But perhaps the most profound aspect of Will’s story is his understanding that the vineyard is not just a business; it’s a sanctuary, one where purity, authenticity, and sustainability are not just ideals, but daily practices. As the world around him changes, Ouweleen stands firm in his belief that his work, and the work of others like him, will continue to inspire and lead the way toward a future where integrity and stewardship are at the forefront of every decision.

Looking to the future, Will’s vision for O-Neh-Da Vineyards and the Finger Lakes extends beyond the wine bottle. It is a vision that holds space for the region’s farmers, artisans, and community members, creating a ripple effect that spreads far beyond the rows of grapevines. It’s a call to preserve, to protect, and to honor the land that has given so much to those who have come before. And in that mission, Will Ouweleen has found not just success, but fulfillment, a testament to the power of combining purpose and passion.

In the end, Will’s work at O-Neh-Da stands as a profound reminder: sometimes the most meaningful journeys come not from seeking out grandeur, but from following the quiet call of something far greater than oneself. His life’s work continues to inspire others to listen to that call and to take action that will resonate for generations to come. In the words of the Seneca Nation: “Gogwè: niyohtowa’tak (We are all one people).”



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